Knitted shaped bust section



Patentecl Feb. 27, 1934 UNITED STATES KNITTED SHAPED BUST SECTION Herman H. Mueller, New Holland, Pa., assignor to Vanity Fair Silk Mills, Reading, Pa a 001'- poration of Pennsylvania Application March 28,

3 Claims.

This inventidn relates 130 knitted shaped bust sections adapted to be incorporated in brassires, slips, corsets, foundation garments 01 any other garments designed to conforrn to the natural figure of women 01 to remold or modify the figures of women.

The general object of the invention is to provide a bust section adapted to be knit in the flat on a full fashion hosiery machine having areas differentiated by convergence in the direction of the Wales, contiguous areas being delineated by rows of fashion formations which determine the convergence of the wales, the tensiqnin'g, 0f the knitting inlshe several areas and in that area which Will be the apical region of the section when shaped, being so regulated that' when the adjacent edges of the flat knit blank are brought together and united from apex to periphery, the tensioning will be scientifically distributed to produce uniform convexity in the resulting cup 01' section, while the disposition of the wales is such as 110 impart a. supporting up-lift 130 the under part cf the breast, ab the same time yielding substantially freely to the natural contour of the upper portion of the breast, and being maintained relatively firm in the circumferential region of' the apex o1 nipple, all cf which attributes have the co-ordinate effect of giving the breasts the firm, up-lifted and yet unrestrained. contour of youth.

Another object of the invention is the provision of knit shaped bust sections for garments which will always reassume their original shape after repeated launderings.

Other objects of the invention will appear as the following description of a preferred and practioal embodiment thereof proceeds.

In the drawing which accompanies and forms a part of the following specification and throughout the several figures of which the same characers of reference have been employed to denote identical parts:

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the invention applied to a brassire;

Figure 2 is a front elevation of one of the completed bust sections;

Figure 3 is a side elex ation; and

Figure 4 is a plan view of the knitted blank.

Referring now in detail 110 the several figures,

the numeral 1 represents a blank which is knit fiat on a full fashion hosiery machine, the fashion formations 2 being so arranged. as to delineate two rows 3 and 4 of fashion marks which converge to a common point 5which will be the apex or nipple region in the finished. bust section. The

1933. Serial'No. 663,194

rows cf fashion marks define three areas in the blank in which due 110 the fashioning, the Wales ran in difierent directions. The area 6 constitutes the top half of the bust section as is clearly shown in Figure 2 and in which the wales extend horizontally. In the area 7, the Wales extend vertically in the finished bust' section while in the intermediate area 10 the wales extend toward the apex 5. In forming the bust section the edges 8 and 9 are brought together and united in a seam 13 in any suitable manner as by a regular iu]l fashion steady dial looping machine. The closure may also be effecsed by sewing by band o1 by machine. In order 130 effect a satisfactory closure of these edges, the fabric may be knit so that it will not unrave'al along the edges 130 be united.

A blank constructed as shown in Figure 4, lends itself to the scientific solution of those problems which arise in theproduction of a shaped bust cup 01 section. This is accomplished through two factors, namely, the direction of the wales in the finished bust section, determined by the convergence of the rows of fashion marks and the regulation cf the tensioning of the kilitting inthe several areas. It is wel1 understood by those skilled in the art of knitting fabrics, that the wales are substantially inelastic in the direction o'f their length, but freely elastic transversely of their length. It will be obvious then from an inspection of Figure 2 in which the completed bust section is illustrated, that the Wales in the area '7 which underlies the breast are inelastic in a vertical direction, that is to say,' from the base 015 the breast to the nipple and that therefore they will not yielc'l in a vertical direction to the weight of the breast, but on the contrary, will exe rt a supporting and up-lifting function. On the 0ther hand, the transverse 0r horizontal run of ehe wales in the large area 6 which covers the upper half of the bust, permits a substantially free stretching of this part of the bust section from the nipple upward underlshe pressure of the upper half 0f the breast so @hat this part is free to assume its natural contour. These are the comditi0ns under which the breast assumes its optimum appearance cf youthful fullness, namely,

the narrowing fingers f the machine are set 1:0 come in 1:w0 needles from the 1ef1: 0f the machine toward the area 7 and one needle from the righ1:

ward the area 7.

This operation continues f0r as many narr0W- ings as are desired, bu1; is governed directly by the length 0f the fabric 0r the shape desired from the 1:0p line of the blank down 1:0 the bottom line of 1:he area 6.

One can only reduce the wid11h of the triangular area 10 by narrowing fingers coming in over needles from right and. lef1; until these narrowing fingers mach theapex 5. This leaves the bust section open between the lines 8 and 9. Accurate coincidence of the lines 8 and 9 When the blank is brought together is accomplished by counting the courses and setting them accurately. A predetermined number 0f courses is set and then the portion represented by the line 9 is pressed 01T and 1;he portion representing 1;he width 0f the area 6, measured widthwise from the apex is continued down until the number of courses in the area 6 below the apex 5 correspond 110 the number 0f loops in a course measured along the line 9. 'I'he lines 8 and 9 are brought together and joined in any suitable manner as on a steady dial looping machine. T0 give a curved or-round ed shape 1:0 the lower outside of the bust; section and 110 draw the nipple toward the center 0f the chest, the loop formations are regulated t0 produce a tight knitting on both 1;he right andleft sides in the upper lef1; portion 11 of the area 6 and in the lower right area 7 0f the individual bus1; section and loose knitting in the intermediate area 10.

These relative tension values of the knitting are carried in the several areas f0r about two-thirds the distance from 1she 0uter edge toward the apex, but in tha1: region bounded by the circle 12 in Figure 2, and to the left 0f the plane AB in Figure 3, 1:he tensiom'ng is regulated as 110 produce tight knitting in the angle 0f the intermediate section as well as in the o1zher septions surrounding th e apex. This creates a relatively firm area in the region 0f the nipple.

A bust section manufactured according t0 the principles 0f the present invention has the ad- Vantage tha1; it will coincide in every portion 0f its surface with the breast without fullness or wrinkling, and that it will retain its shape regardless of repeated laundering. Due 130 the controlled tensioning, it presents a smooth contin uous convex surface and in view 0f the disposition of its Wales, i1: lends up-lifting support 1:0 the underside cf 1;he breas1: while leaving the upper portion 0f the bre1ast unrestrained.

I1: may be made of any suitable material adapted for use in knitting, such for example as cotton,

W001, silk, covered or uncovered rubber, rayon, etc. I1: is designed not only for brassires, but f0r any garment in which i1' may be. desired 120 pr0vide conformation to the naturalfigure or in which i1: may be desired 150 conform or modify the figure 1:0 an aesthetic physical standard.

From the manufacturing standpoint, i1; is simple to make and adapted 1:0 be manufactured upon known types of full fashion hosiery machine.

While I have in the above description disclosed what I believe 1:0 be a preferred and practical embodiment of my imiention, it is to be understood that the specific details as illustrated and described are merely by way cf example and that the inventi0n is 1:0 be construed With a breadth commensurate 150 1;he terms 0f 1;he appended claims.

What I claim is:

1. Knitted shaped bust section comprising an integrally kni1: fabric unit including a plurality 0f courses, and rows of narrowing intersecting said courses and converging toward an apex, defining a triangular areav intermediate the ends of said courses, 1:he courses defining an area on one sicle 0f said triangular area terminating in that course which embraces the apex of said triangular area, and the area defined by the courses 0n the opposite side 0f said triangular area being continued to form an extension beyond that course which embraces said apex, 1:0 a length substantially equal to the length of the terminal course 0f the area on the first mentioned side 0f said trangular area, 1:he side 0f said extension and the terminal course of the area on 'the first mentioned side of saidtriangular area being united.

2. Blank for a knitted shaped bus1; section comprising an integrally knit fabric unit having the direction of its courses diverted by rows of narrowing intersecting said courses and nonverging toward an apex, defining an intermediate triangula'r area, 1:he courses defining an area on one side 0f said triangular area terminating in that course which embraces the apex 0f said triangular area, and the area defined by 13118 courses on the opposite side of said triangular area being continued 150 -form an extension beyond that course which embraces said apex t0 a length substantially equal 120 the length of the terminal course 0f 1:he area on the first mentioned HERMAN H. MUELLER. 

